I want to be a garden

Rainer Maria Rilke was just one of the many distinguished visitors to the famous spa town of Meran. In addition to the therapeutic air and the healing thermal baths, the poet, with his sense for all things beautiful and vibrant, likely also enjoyed the unique blend of Alpine and Mediterranean flora that has always made the Meran basin a very special place. Rilke once famously stated, «There are moments in which a rose is more important than a piece of bread.» Franz Tappeiner, the man whose name is synonymous with Meran, was also inspired by Rilke’s philosophy, pausing his medical research only to amass thousands of plants, catalogue them and create a herbarium, sustaining himself on a modest diet of milk and bread.

A renowned physician, botanist and anthropologist from Laas in Vinschgau, Tappeiner settled in Merano after completing his academic pursuits in Padua, Vienna and Prague. Once here, he not only offered innovative cures to the crowds of VIPs seeking healing but also assisted the population as a doctor and visionary. Perhaps most notably, he funded the construction of the Tappeinerweg, one of the city’s most beautiful promenades, still
characterised by its lush Mediterranean vegetation. The biodiversity along the Tappeinerweg is remarkable, and in addition to the wonderful view, it also offers a botanical education trail. The municipal parks and gardens department uses a digital, open-access tree register to manage the tree population.

Around the world in 80 flowers

The roughly three-kilometre Tappeinerweg promenade starts in the historic Gratsch district. Here, Elisabeth Kössler established the PflanzGutes project, dedicating her life to nurturing and celebrating all that blooms and flourishes. Kössler, originally from Bavaria, has a deep affinity for flowers. «Flowers are very important to me: they add colour, joy to life and open my heart; they attract insects, decorate my home and meals – not to mention all the flowers in my herbal teas,» she shares. Her project includes a permaculture garden that spans nearly a hectare. In this garden, she grows various native plants – including some rare and forgotten cultivars – to later sell the garden’s certified organic, true-seed varieties. Selling these seeds is a political statement, as 27% of plant species are endangered in South Tyrol alone. In addition, the propagation of such seeds is an act of peaceful resistance to over-bred hybrid varieties: true seed means that seeds can be harvested from the plant that comes from the seed – to grow new plants in turn. This endless and natural cycle contrasts with the genetically unstable hybrid varieties that dominate the global commercial market, varieties not bred for longevity.

In his work The Life of Plants: A Metaphysics of Mixture, Italian philosopher Emanuele Coccia claims: «If it is from plants that we ought to enquire what the world is, this is because they are the ones who play the world (font le monde).» Coccia sees the flower, the part of the plant responsible for reproduction and thus a cosmic attractor for absorbing the world, as the interface between the plant and the broader world and, therefore, as its cosmopolitan apparatus of experience. He argues that this connection is something from which we humans can learn.

Staying in the Merano region, specifically in the quaint village of Gargazon, the Raffeiner family has devoted their lives to nurturing what they regard as floral mentors. At the Gartenbau Raffeiner, which covers over 6,000 square metres, Valtl Raffeiner and his family showcase over 500 varieties of orchids and several green plants. This place is not a conventional garden centre; the company is better known to most as Orchid World. It is a vibrant realm where orchids, in particular, take centre stage in crafting the world, captivating thousands of visitors with their magic each year. And if you are wondering what orchids, native to the jungle, are doing in a greenhouse in the Alps (powered by renewable energy and rainwater), you can rest assured: orchids are among the oldest flowers in the world and have not only developed a huge family tree of colours and shapes but have also travelled quite a bit. Some species have even made themselves at home in the Himalayas.

At this point, the French landscape architect and gardener Gilles Clément might speak of accomplices to nature’s genius. In his book Gardens, Landscape and Nature’s Genius, he explains that all gardeners create a relationship with the world in their gardens. This can only succeed with the support of nature and never in the mistaken belief that they can dominate it. This is clear not only to the Raffeiner family but also to Anna Gruber and Daniele Piscopiello from DA Genussgarten. On around three hectares of leased land between Algund and the upper Vinschgau valley, they practice regenerative agriculture, conveying the fruits of their labour to their customers once a week through their storefront in Meran, as well as convenient subscription boxes.

The duo, partners in both life and agriculture, embarked on a journey toward self-sufficiency about a decade ago when they decided to cultivate certified organic produce. Over time, seasonal cut flowers have also become an increasingly important product of DA Genussgarten. Anna, in particular, has found her niche in the business, leading South Tyrol’s foray into the global slow flower movement. This movement champions seasonal and local cut flowers grown without the use of pesticides and herbicides: «When I am among the flowers, they nourish my soul,» Anna reflects. «They rejuvenate me and provide support. I have often entered the garden upset, thinking there were too few flowers. Yet the flowers have never disappointed me. Even if I don’t find what I initially seek, I am invariably greeted by an unexpected delight. Nature is an endless source of abundance, which one can draw
on infinitely.»

At the other end of the city, in the magnificent Obermais district, another individual also uses gardens to sketch out her relationship with the world: Carmen Müller – artist, passionate gardener and self-declared garden researcher – not only enjoys spending time in her own garden but also captures her observations of others’ gardens in her artworks and exhibitions. In these gardens, she recognises the spirit of the gardener and the character of the place. This brings to mind Gilles Clément’s principle that true engagement with nature’s genius begins with observation. Clément could hardly have dreamt that the Merano region would be home to a person who could turn these observations into art. What makes this perceptive person and her unique works of art so special is her ability to capture the diverse and unexpected beauty of flowers and the entire garden world. Shoots of lettuce or a bed full of galinsoga – which some may mistakenly call a weed – are no less attractive for Müller than a peony or a bed full of dahlias: «Plants in general and flowers, in particular, are an endless source of inspiration for my artistic research. Flowers in your space – balm for the soul,» she articulates with a smile.

This unique perspective of everything that blooms and flourishes is by no means a given. It proves once again that a true appreciation of nature comes from proximity and a relationship with it. Müller has a considerable advantage in this regard: in addition to experiencing her own garden, she can reach the famous Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle in just a short walk. Here, where Empress Elisabeth of Austria (often referred to as «Sisi» by locals) once resided with her court to enjoy the sunny spa town, a botanical garden was opened in 2001 that now extends over twelve hectares. Over the years, these gardens have garnered countless international awards. A continuous stream of visitors passes through its gates to explore the diverse plant worlds. Meran’s unique climate makes it possible to grow Alpine conifers not far from exotic succulents. It’s hard to imagine anyone not being charmed by these gardens. No matter the season, whether tree, shrub or flower, there is something for everyone to discover. Nature’s genius – with a bit of human support. As for Sisi, she had a particular fondness for
violets. So much so that she often ate violet ice cream, even when she was on a diet.

Dive in and bloom

During her stay in Merano, South Tyrol, the empress also took the odd trip to the nearby Ultental valley, which opens onto the Merano basin near Lana. The healing baths of Mitterbad near St. Pankraz were the likely reason for her visits, as well as the care provided by the Austrian doctor and philosopher Christoph Hartung von Hartungen, who owned a summer villa in the rear of the Ultental valley, near St. Nikolaus. St. Nikolaus is also where the visionary Waltraud Schwienbacher was born and raised. With years of farming experience under her belt, this keen nature observer spearheaded several ambitious initiatives, among which the Winterschule Ulten is the most renowned. Awarded the Golden Cross of Merit of the Province of Tyrol and the Prize of Women’s Creativity in Rural Life, Schwienbacher is driven by a passion for herbs, health and wool processing. Her mission? To uphold the region’s natural heritage while fostering employment opportunities for local farmers. Launched in 1993 with just a few attendees, the winter school has since blossomed, attracting hundreds of registrants from beyond South Tyrol’s borders. Courses in Alpine herbalism, woodturning and more draw eager learners. The wildflower floristry course is particularly suitable for inspiring the eye (and heart) to appreciate all the world’s flowers.

After three years of training (at the latest), participants agree with Rilke that roses are indeed sometimes more important than a piece of bread. And all the individuals mentioned in this flowery inventory of Merano and the surrounding area would certainly have got on splendidly with him back then in Merano, when he wrote, «I want to be a garden.»