How to do Törggelen in South Tyrol

For those who spend their autumn holidays in South Tyrol, Törggelen is a must. The popular custom is as South Tyrolean as chives in the bacon dumplings. From the beginning of October to mid-November, traditional South Tyrolean dishes are served at the farmhouse inns and rustic pubs. Examples include barley soup, Schlutzkrapfen (a filled pasta dish), smoked ham, Kaminwurzen cold-smoked sausages, cheese and farmer's bread or a meat platter and home made sausages, ribs, cured meat, smoked meat and sauerkraut. All dishes are homemade, of course. For dessert, there are sweet Krapfen pastries and roasted chestnuts. The guests drink sweet, not yet fermented grape juice (“Susser") and later new wine ("Nuier").

Törggelen has a long tradition: farmers and wine merchants met in autumn after wine pressing to taste the new wine and the fermented Susser grape juice. The term "Törggelen" does not derive from "stagger after too much wine," as some might assume, but instead from the Latin word "torquere," which means "to press wine."

Nowadays, this old custom has become an integral part of South Tyrolean culture, and the good food and drink are no longer the only factors that make the evenings so popular. It’s equally about sitting comfortably together with friends, laughing, celebrating, making music and enjoying together.

There is no magic recipe for the correct and true Törggelen, but with these seven tips your ‘Törggele’ evening will surely be unforgettable.

Tip 1: Down on the farm: Farms that are part of the "Authentic Törggelen" initiative and belong to the “Red Rooster" are guaranteed to be rustic, but Törggelen can be held wherever chestnuts grow and good wine is cultivated.

Tip 2: Make sure you reserve: Even if you go Törggelen during the week, space is limited and the farmers do not offer Törggelen every day.

Tip 3: Leave your car: Park and walk with your friends to the winegrower's. Not only do you get beautiful views, but the food tastes even better after a walk through autumnal nature.

Tip 4: Speaking of feasting, you can also eat with your hands: ribs and home made sausages are allowed and so too are the chestnuts of course, but just don't overdo it. This goes for eating and for drinking as well! Even though everything is tasty and the Susser is delicious, it's better not to drink more than a litre. Otherwise things can go south in a hurry. Make sure to wear trousers that don't pinch before eating. You’re welcome to wear comfortable clothing.

Tip 5: In addition to comfortable clothes, you should also wear good shoes on the way to Törggelen and preferably pack a torch and jacket for the way back. Alternatively, you can be picked up comfortably by taxi afterwards.

Tip 6: Speaking of the day after... Don't schedule any important appointments just in case the wine was better than expected. Chestnuts are tasty but sometimes cause gassiness.